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Jan. 2nd, 2022 04:38 pm
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 Last Monday, two trains coupled together, twelve carriages and still full: into town, in the middle of the day, from North Kent. Many were young, late teens, early twenties. A party of six had brought gin, fruit juice, cava. Their conversations: you could tell they had grown up together.
 
Marked over the last few days, but it's been like this for a while now. At weekends, they're pouring out of Liverpool Street, Fenchurch Street, not down the tube but directly into the surrounding streets. Some dressed for the evening, at noon.
 
There were crowds in Shoreditch and crowds in the Borough but in summer it was like two floods joined and Broadgate and Gracechurch Street now alive, with young people.
 
 
I've had this thing for eighteen years now. When I look back to 2003, I was always out and walking, and I'm walking still. When I remember it as a category of activity, I think first of walking west. I've moved east since then, so there's further to go until I get to the parts of town I associate with dusk: Barons Court and Holland Park, Hammersmith and Shepherd's Bush. The glow at the ends of the streets, the plane silhouettes descending into the distance.
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The first day of the year, dusk, about three-thirty, near the top of Endell Street. At the foot of a tree, items recently discarded, including a colourful  new and unopened pack of pastels. One object when disturbed proves to be a music box, already primed: it emits its tinny, sentimental chimes into the empty street. It feels like a set-up, a scene from a weak television drama; it isn't comforting.
 
I tell a friend about it by email. With Midland speech patterns in his response: 'Dystopian, is that!' He attaches to his reply a photograph purported to be recent and of a terrapin riding the bloated corpse of a dog or fox afloat on the Regent's Canal.
 
In previous years, Ramadan was the evening sound of people coming and going in this block and the one opposite. Shouts of their children in the stairwells and courtyards, instructions, directions, for parking arrangements and the burdens of pots and containers of food for Iftar. This last year the fasts were broken quietly and no-one came or went.
 
My favourite walk into town passes the railway arches containing taxi garages and dark kitchens. Beyond that and before Brick Lane, a short row of low-rise housing with front gardens. In one, a gazebo has been installed, sheltering a table set for a gathering: the chairs pulled up, glasses, etcetera. It was installed shortly before Eid, and whether for that purpose or another, it appears never to have been used. Six months on, the weather has dishevelled it, but the table seems otherwise untouched. 
 
It's dystopian, is that. Or maybe it's hopeful: I saw a vaccine queue for the first time yesterday, in Lamb's Conduit Street, and I'm hopeful too. 
 
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 Late June. A street preacher of the Christian variety is occupying a self-delineated space outside the Salmon, stepping forward and back across the pavement as she rants. We are doomed; she is exultant. One of a passing couple remarks: 'Everyone off their meds now... everyone.' From somewhere just beyond the Sainsbury's Local queue comes a tentative contribution of: 'Allahu Akbar!'; which may be an endorsement or an attempt at inter-faith dialogue.
 
July. The presumption in favour of avoiding proximity encourages performative clarity in pavement occupancy. Nevertheless, I am unable to escape an embarrassing pas de deux with a fox when passing through the passageway beneath a neighbouring block of flats: it takes a few feints to sort ourselves out and the beast gives an impatient snort as we do so. Later that day and returning via the wider, parallel alley, I end up in step with surely the same fox. We each maintain the greatest possible mutual distance, but without one of us just stopping we will be sharing this path for several dozen yards. So we proceed with city-dweller's etiquette, as if unaware of each other. Then one of the cats affiliated to the pub at the end appears coming the other way, pauses, then not to lose face by retreating or scaling a wall, carries on its way between the fox and me, ostentatiously ignoring us both.
 
August. The tables and chairs set out in the streets in Soho resemble less the intended continental café terrasse than the arrangements for a children's street party on the occasion of a royal jubilee or wedding. Especially when it begins to rain.
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Metrocentric gets your laundry every time

မန္တလေး / Mandalay
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 St Pancras: gas holders repurposed as cages enclose new drum shaped residential blocks. That's behind me and before me the canal. It's a weekday lunchtime in summer. A woman passes by on a bicycle and as she does so a small dog leaps from her handlebar basket, into the water. She's dismounting in the swiftest manner possible and serendipitously a man running close behind reaches into the brackish soup to scoop out the hound.

She's thanking him profusely, she says the dog must have thought it was like the pond at the park, and the man is happy to have helped and now he's running on. She's vigorously rubbing the beast dry with a small blanket and chattering away to it, tones of reassurance and admonition by turns. She and it and the bicycle are strewn across the towpath.
 
A man walks by and she engages him in conversation: the incident is recounted. He passes on and she is busy with the dog, the blanket, the bicycle, more contents of the basket. Preparing to leave, yet not leaving; taking up a little more of the towpath than before.
 
A couple appear and she waylays them to tell the tale. Then another pedestrian is regaled, and so on. The woman and her dog and her bicycle and everything else are now fully in occupation of the towpath and to pass them a toll must be paid. It's been ten minutes now and she's not going anywhere. 
 
Later I'll think I understand why she is doing this - telling the tale again and again, thereby apprehending and assimilating the incident and in so doing reducing its shock. And isn't this what our fellow people, society, are for? 
 
But for now, when there are no more passers-by her attention is bound to turn to the occupants of the benches bordering the new flats. I'm off, quickly; I think I can hear her voice behind me but I'm not turning around.
 
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I'm a fifty year old man
And I like it
I'm a fifty year old man
What're you gonna do about it?



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 The automated announcements on the Luas are delivered in an assertive tone. When she says: 'Please move down the tram', her delivery stops just short of an exclamation mark and despite being appropriately seated you wonder how best to obey her. She declares the stops in both Gaelic and English. The longer, varying titles have the value of a language lesson; the shorter names, sound identical in either tongue so repeated,  like command and reprimand: 'Raghnallach. Ranelagh.' [back here boy and out the road you idiot hound] 'Doiminic. Dominick.' [put that down now you wicked child].
 
It had been a very long time since I last heard the term 'skin-popping' in conversation - not since the late 1980s. Then just the other week, over two days, twice: one afternoon in Stoneybatter, the next morning by the Wholefoods mimic at Smithfield. On the latter occasion more detail was available - with the air of a jaded phlebotomist a young man was explaining to his customer the eccentricities of her misused circulatory system, and alternative means of getting his product into her bloodstream.
 
Over five days I saw posters for one missing dog, two missing cats, four missing men.
 
In Tallacht, digitally rendered representations of intended uses are pasted to the windows of vacant ground floor units, in the customary manner. A scene of a cafe includes no customers, but a solitary member of staff,  whose gaze reaches beyond the room with an expresion of troubled yearning. Another tableau, another cafe: there are two customers at opposite ends of the depicted room, one has her back to us, revealing nothing; the other is facing away from her table, hunched over and absorbed in her phone. These images are almost subversive in that they portray the interiors less as a typical developer's aspiration, more as the alienation and anomie we can expect to see in reality. They also owe a considerable debt to Edward Hopper.


corners

Dec. 21st, 2018 12:40 am
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On the corner the former fire station is occupied by Buddhists; variants of yoga and mindfulness are practised there. The other morning, early, two pale young men were at its entrance, verbally altercating; they were in disagreement and had Taken It Outside. As I passed I heard one to say to the other: "...I hear that, I accept that, but how you make me feel, when you..."

Out of the disused public toilet at the corner of the gardens by the tube station, a small bar/restaurant has been contrived. Before this establishment was installed a coffee stall was displaced, the eviction being effected passively: the proprietor's power supply was cut off. My initial impression of the new establishment was of the generic cafe background scene in a television series, or the aspirational images depicted on a retail development hoarding.  Later an acquaintance remarked that it "...looks like something off of Hollyoaks", which I think is the same thing in fewer words.

In the evenings, the whir of Ocado vans and the buzz of food delivery scooters; my block is one of three with the same name and the mopeds move from one to the next in confusion, nosing around the corners, like bees at a rose bush.

My building was a place where cleaners lived; now several of my neighbours are visited weekly by cleaners.

The process of economic, social and cultural change locally is not so much one of gentrification, but suburbanisation.

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A Saturday in light rain, and he was lost. He showed me the map on the screen of his phone, but those streets were not near that which we were in. Perhaps he'd emerged from the Underground and the GPS, or the mast triangulation, or whatever it is that allows spatial location of a device, had not caught up from his last detected location.

He was showing me Notting Hill Gate and we were just off the Farringdon Road. What was he at?

I reckon it's a psychogeographer's delusion, that navigating through one place using the charts for another - countermapping - can be rewarding. I've tried it: for me it just obscured the pleasure of being lost. Moreover, psychogeography is largely an older man's game, and this fellow was a lot younger. Additionally, he exhibited convincing symptoms of one who wants to find a place, with some urgency, having for some time been in search of it.

He could swipe his screen about as far as Marylebone, then it would flick back west to the foot of Pembridge Gardens. He said, he didn't know the name of the place he was seeking, but he would recognise it if he saw it.

He looked stressed; that he needed to be in that place by now.

He looked like he needed a hug.
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I am reminded by that of the LRB, and by association at this time of year, Alan Bennett's diary. Impossible not to read it in one's own approximation of his gentle, Yorkshire accent. Sorting out the link to the website version, I find Bennett has supplied his own narration of it, see top of page. So now I've enjoyed it all over again, as read to me by himself.

"In the National Gallery’s picture [The Supper at Emmaus] Christ, suddenly recognised by the company at supper (and also with downcast eyes), looks plump-cheeked and almost debauched, a grown-up version of one of Caravaggio’s grape-eating boys."
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I was pleased that I could meet them together. They'd split up now, but were by no means estranged. Even now, after years, I saw a frame around them.

Their Sunday lunch invitations were often at short notice, and I didn't always accept them, but those I did, I enjoyed. Always mid-afternoon; any earlier and they wouldn't have been awake. They always had a Bloody Mary for me, with a decent charge of Absolut Peppar in it, 'for your hangover'; whether I had one or not. Then he or she would say: 'Now we'll have to catch up with you', and they did.

They'd dance in the kitchen when Kylie came on the radio. On warm days the garden door would be open, letting in bees and the noise of planes.

She said: 'We never rowed when you were round', then quickly: 'He still calls it London Fascism Week 'cause of you'. I replied 'It's big and it's bland, full of tension and fear, beep beep'.

He had been talking to her friend, who was also along; he turned to me and said '[Metro] she doesn't realise how much she taught me about fashion. When you're into someone and you want to know about them? What's important to them? I learnt a lot.' He could be so immediate, open and direct, and he had not lost that.

Having cleared the feint, I said: 'Was that why you had me over?' She replied: 'Sometimes... so as we were on our best behaviour'. I asked, in more words than this: was I that austere? 'You calmed us down', she explained; turned to him then: 'Didn't he?' 'Yes, you were a calming effect'.

I'd always suspected something of the kind. For couples, Sundays can be the best and the worst. I said: 'I was like the donkey they put in the horsebox to stop the horses panicking on the way to the racecourse'.

And they both said, oh no, not just, but yeh kind of.
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We were returning from daytime dining at the near edge of Belgravia. We crossed reformed territory opposite the station, where the cafes were chains pretending not to be and protective plastic was impatiently peeling from the new facades.

I saw a couple kissing goodbye - and not perfunctorily - then separating to return to their respective offices. And then another, taking leave of each other with similar warmth. It was not the first time I'd noticed this, in this place and time, and I remarked on it: I said how heartening it was to see partners taking that time in the middle of the day to be with each other; I went on to say that this probably makes for a healthy relationship.

My companion looked at me, smiling, then searching: as if I were to say a little more, or that what I had said was not quite understood. I now realise he had thought my intent was humorous, then detected it hadn't been.

'[Metro]', he said 'this is lovely for them, I'm sure. They might be in relationships - but not with each other.' He went on to explain that for many this was the only time not accounted for between the demands of work and home. There might be other moments grabbed here and there by fabricating overtime, gym visits, evening classes, and so on. But at lunchtime, people who should not be with each other, could be - and without constructing a specific alibi to do so.

I was too struck by the revelation to be embarrassed at my naivety: that there was this further layer in the street scene, and I had not really seen it. It was as when someone points out the plain clothes policemen in a crowd: you kick yourself you did not clock them immediately, but thereafter, you see them here and there.

Additionally, now I know who forms the clientele of those eerily generic restaurants of a weekday lunchtime.


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They were walking ahead of me: presumably a mother and son, perhaps he was about seven years old.  They were talking ahead of me, and I didn't catch much of it, but one sentence floated back. She said:

    Today's a day when we don't have to do anything we don't want to.

I thought this was marvellous.  It was a weekday mid-morning, it was during school term, I remember that.

They had turned off the Finchley Road, I was carrying on towards Swiss Cottage and the words stayed with me.  I wondered, what were the parameters, what was the context?  Did it apply to her as much as to him?  I hoped so.  But so much was imponderable, and I was happy enough to simply repeat the line in my head and think it was marvellous.
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An elderly woman swoops aboard the 37 at 07:15, at Zemo Alekseevka, chattering to the captive audience in Russian. A TTC employee has been conducting passengers to the machine to pay their fares, but this new addition is unconductable. She moves with vigour, up and down the aisle, a constant patter. She addresses us by turns collectively and individually. She's not passing a hat around, she may not be in her right mind, but her objective seems solely to be to entertain. Many of the passengers laugh, apparently not unkindly; whatever her lines, they're found genuinely funny. Then she's off at Samgori metro, so much energy so early in the morning, so late in life.

-

We are stuck on the 176 while buses ahead queue to drop passengers in the small space beyond the new barrier on Waterloo Bridge. Something has caught the attention of a young couple several seats in front of me, something below the bridge on the concrete skirts of the National Theatre. In his expression, the tone of his voice, is genuine, urgent concern: he's saying to the glass and the air between here and there: "Don't do it, you don't have to do that." His companion, leaning across him, similarly dismayed, hand to her mouth murmuring "Oh stop it, no..." Another passenger now faces that way, shakes his head and sighs at what he sees. I'll have to look, but I'm imagining variations on contemporary themes - maybe someone about to detonate themselves in a spray of industrial drain cleaner and shattered moped parts. Now I see it isn't: a man kneels before a woman on the public slabs and is offering her a shiny object in a very small box. Now I understand my fellow passengers' reactions, but it's a relief nonetheless.
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It was one of those awkwardly wet days; in trying to jam something into one of my pockets I had managed to cut my thumb. My hands are soft, you understand: when the Revolution comes it will be evident by my silky palms that I am not a Worker.

My thumb was bleeding, and I was sitting on the tram on the way to the bus for the airport, and I was staunching the flow, or rather dabbing away the single droplet, with a bit of paper napkin from Pressbyrån. The lady sitting opposite me reached into her bag, and once she had switched to English, offered me a sticking plaster. She had Elastoplasts in her bag! Fancy that. Praktisk.

So I thanked her and put the plaster on, and thanked her again, and in response, what with limited language, etc., she gave me that internationally recognised ‘thumbs up’ sign. And so I made the same gesture in response with my freshly plastered thumb.

At which she giggled a bit, then a bit more, pretty soon she was giggling quite a lot. And then she got it under control for a moment, but from there until Drottningtorget all I had to do was catch her eye to set her off again.

She might have been laughing at the visual joke of the plaster on my thumb, or straight up laughing at me, but I'm past caring about that. It was worth cutting my thumb for it.
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Perhaps this is a characteristic of buying books in London, or perhaps a characteristic of me, but the moment of exchange - the money for the book across the counter - has rarely been accompanied by discussion.

I remember the last anomaly before recent times: I was purchasing a large format tome explaining how to use 'Windows ME', and Terry Eagleton's "Literary Theory: An Introduction''. I agreed with the employee that if neither volume were helpful on their stated subjects, I should simply swap them around: the literary critic helping me work my pc, the low-tech consumer manual offering insights into theme and structure in the written narrative. It was a rewarding interaction.

Since then, many years had passed until the next exchange, but from a certain point, I don't know why, they come thick and fast - the most recent last week.

First. The cashier lights up at sight of the cover, and asks me if I've read the author's other novel - she had and considered it excellent. I say I haven't, but that I'd seen one of her films. Now we both look confused, because I didn't think she had published a novel in addition to that now before us, and the cashier appears puzzled at suggestion the writer made movies. With a queue behind me we leave it at that, but it's an unsatisfying moment, I expect for both of us.

Second. The cashier clouds over, in fact becomes stormy, at the sight of the cover, and mutters more to the counter than to me: 'Hateful book'. I feel I should respond, if only to acknowledge her remark: I ask 'What didn't you like about it?' To which she spits in response: 'I haven't read it!'. As if I had accused her of the same sin I am clearly about to commit. As she gives me my change she has the irritably breathless demeanour of someone who has just needlessly run up a long flight of stairs, and is now in the presence of the inventor of steps. So I did not seek to prolong the encounter.

Third. The cashier beams at the four books, then at me, and exclaims: 'All women writers!'. She does so in a tone normally accompanied by delivery of a pat on the head, or a biscuit, or both. I consider expressing mild surprise at this commonality in my purchases, but conclude I cannot do so convincingly. Instead I seek refuge in my blandest smile. Esprit d'escalier supplies me with me with variously (in)appropriate responses all the way home, and intermittently since.

I should be more positive about this outbreak of lively point-of-sale discourse. After all, what are books but communication itself? A stimulating, positive discussion could have followed each of the above exchanges. But it didn't, and if it carries on like this I will end up reduced to mail order.
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When I was growing up, all the rainbows were singular. Just one multi-coloured arc at a time. I was about twenty when I saw my first double rainbow; it was somewhere in North Derbyshire.

Now they're all doubles. Every last one. It's just so crass, so unnecessary.

Do you remember a time before double rainbows

Just to be

Apr. 12th, 2017 07:48 pm
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...on the safe side

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